The 2021 Vintage

  Two things to know about the 2021 growing season:

(1) There was an unprecedented amount of rain in the Northeast last summer and the ground was extremely saturated throughout the fall (in fact, it’s still wet from all the rain!) This is problematic for the crop for several reasons: the water makes the apples heavier, the humidity promotes defoliating fungal diseases, but especially, and in combination with the above, the gray skies means less sunlight. As you know, wine fruit is best well ripened.

(2) 2021 was a “mast year” for fruit and nuts. Beyond the farm, every few years the trees in the forest conspire to seed heavily, which is a natural strategy, but when this happens the forest, and the farm trees in communication with the forest, tend to be shy baring the following year. Ipso Facto, we are looking at a very light harvest for 2022.  

  For us in the Northeast, the two factors yielded more juice than usual, but unlike sweet cider makers this is worrisome for the quality dry cider maker. Quantity is almost never a good thing. And, in fact, the sugars and acids were measurably more diluted for wine and cider fruit growers throughout the NE region (don’t let anyone tell you otherwise.) Yet despite all the signs of a bad vintage, to my surprise, in the actual barrels was a far better cider than what I expected. Come spring, what I thought would be a “D” vintage ended-up a “B-”. (Phew, as Wordle would say.)  

  If you care for my opinion, let me offer two reasons why I think our ciders triumphed despite some serious obstacles:  

(1) Vintners who utilize a massive diversity of fruit varieties (as opposed to “selected” varieties) are allowing nature the chance to make-up for the vocal shyness of a wet year. Isn't that common sense? If a boss relies on just one or two strongmen, and those strongmen call-in sick, only a workplace with a healthy, diverse support-staff can continue with the job at hand. Advantage: the wild.  

(2) I believe that the long-term “struggle” of wild trees creates a foundation for expression regardless of the ground saturation. Like a battery, if a tree thinks (they do think) and adjusts to its conditions, the tree will store that memory in its cells. Character is subsequently expressed even when the power-source (the sun) is off! And if I’m right about this, and I am, we have yet another instance in which wild apple trees are communicating to us modern agriculturists something: "This is how to cultivate wine fruit, stupid!" In other words, struggle and are character are closely related.     

But that’s me.